I learned a lot in Italy. How to dodge traffic. How to identify high quality gelato. How to eat five-course meals regularly. How to appreciate sculpture. How to mollify blisters. I learned what it means for something to be truly "historical" (my sister's apartment is older than the USA) and I learned what a real cappuccino should taste like. It was like a dream to run around Italy all day, stay out late in the piazzas and people watch after dark, and eat something fresh and delicious every time I sat down (except for one time in Venice).
The one lesson I had to learn the hard way was about film, so let me pass on this piece of knowledge that is readily available to everyone with internet who has the foresight to research this before traveling with six rolls of new film: Do not put your film in your checked baggage. Put it in your carry-on.
Below are the images that survived the x-ray blast, not all of them unscathed. The ruined images have gone to that mystical place where images go when they die: memory.